Restaurants, Food and Drink

Craig Lieberman commissioned a space-themed mural next to Beckon before he even opened the tasting menu-only restaurant in RiNo in 2018.

But the space theme has slowly become a part of the restaurant’s brand, like this season’s tasting menu called “The Cold Moon.” And it’s also the inspiration behind Beckon’s new counterpart, Major Tom, a champagne-focused cocktail bar and small bites restaurant, that opened on Feb. 15 at 2845 Larimer St., where Call, Beckon’s next-door European cafe, previously operated.

“I originally just liked how the mural by Stella Maria Baer looked, but clearly, it has really resonated with me,” Lieberman said.

Lieberman and co-owner Joshua Elson closed Call, the Scandinavian-inspired bakery/cafe, in 2019 for renovations. But when the pandemic hit shortly after, the Beckon team ended up using the space as a dining room for the restaurant as a result of COVID restrictions. Then they decided to reimagine its use altogether.

“At the end of the day, the small space was too challenging for what we were trying to do with the Call concept,” Lieberman said. “Hopefully Call will come back in some way, but it needs more room. Major Tom fits what Beckon has developed into, you know, a special experience where people can have a really close interaction with how the food and beverages are prepared.”

Major Tom is a spot for Beckon guests to grab a drink and some appetizers before or after their meal, or for any passersby who want to dip their toe into the Beckon experience before dropping $175 a head on dinner.

Executive chef Duncan Holmes, who runs both kitchens, said he heard “Space Oddity” by David Bowie on the radio, and the name just clicked. The 28-seat space with a front patio has a playful ambiance, with a colorful logo, moon-and-star wallpaper, and a galactic art installation above a chef’s counter, where you can feel the heat coming from the hallway-sized kitchen.

“It’s like cooking on a boat,” Holmes said.

For those who miss Call’s chicken salad or smoked salmon tartine, Holmes said he has turned them into open-faced sandwiches offerings at Major Tom. There’s also a nod to the space theme with the “Shooting Star” sandwich, with prawns, skate, caviar and remoulade on sourdough. For a larger meal, try the overnight braised cabbage with miso and lemon, the pork chop, and the eclair filled with popcorn, vanilla cream and honey for dessert.

“Beckon and Major Tom share the same ethos of creating and crafting menu items although they’re certainly done in a different medium,” Holmes said. “Major Tom may not have a tasting menu, but there’s still the same emphasis on the technique, the sourcing of the products.”

Major Tom has a champagne-focused wine program, which Holmes said was influenced by a recent trip with Beckon’s director of experience Allison Anderson to Denmark, which has a big champagne and sparkling wine presence.

It’s open from 4 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. And Holmes said they’d eventually like to add a brunch service on Sundays.

“We want to provide our potential guests with a nice little oasis back here, somewhere where they can get a great glass of wine and choose their adventure before or after that,” Holmes said.

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