Breakfast hot spot Toast opens in Gretna with pancake balls, vivid art, its own playground

Word that a new neighborhood breakfast joint is opening will usually get that neighborhood buzzing like a strong cup of coffee. The news that Toast in particular was expanding to Gretna practically set off jitters.

The other two locations of Toast, by the Fair Grounds and in the French Quarter, have their own feel and have proven strong draws with menus that play it straight for breakfast standards and dishes you’re not likely to knock together yourself at home on any given morning.

At the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast murals by Zac Maras and custom woodwork by Matthew Holdren set the scene. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

That continues at the new Toast in Gretna, the transformation of a house into a tavern. So does the Toast trademark of a built environment resplendent with local art and woodwork.

A playground from NOLA Playhouse is part of the back patio at the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast, with murals by Zac Maras setting the scene. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

This Gretna location of Toast, though, has a different card to play. Head to the back, and you discover a covered patio with its own bar and a turf-lined yard the size of a pocket park set with playground equipment — a place for the kids to run off some of the syrup and chocolate sauce.

A chess set awaits on the patio at the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast, where murals by Zac Maras set the scene. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

This whole outdoor area is hemmed by a fun mural inspired by Louisiana wildlife by the artist Zac Maras. His work prominently adorns a number of other restaurants (you may have seen the full body tattoo-style wraparound transformation he did at Toups’ Meatery in Mid-City.)

At the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast murals by Zac Maras and custom woodwork by Matthew Holdren set the scene. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

The work can continues inside as well, with a huge, happy pelican across the wall of the front dining room and birds in flight over a run of deep booths that feel like cozy breakfast nooks. Local craftsman Matthew Holdren did the custom woodwork here (and at the other Toast locations) and together with the murals, it adds a warmth and the feeling of taking a casual meal in a special place.

A playground from NOLA Playhouse is part of the back patio at the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast, with murals by Zac Maras setting the scene. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

It all sets the scene for a relaxing, casual, playful breakfast restaurant.

Given the name of the restaurant, it feels right to begin by cutting into one of the many dishes that start with toast. Yes, that list is topped by avocado toast, an emblem of hipster brunch everywhere, but at Toast the toasts get much more exuberant and this Gretna menu also loads them up with Louisiana seafood.

Crawfish toast has a creamy sauce over sourdough at the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

You’ve heard of crawfish bread (of Jazz Fest fame); the crawfish toast here has a thick-cut piece of sourdough with a creamy sauce strung with caramelized onions under a pair of eggs surrounded by fried crawfish tails.

A one-time tavern in Gretna has become another location for the breakfast restaurant Toast. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Gruyere cheese stretches between the folded layers of thin crepe when you bite into the ham mushroom and cheese version; get this with a side of ratatouille for an especially French combo.

Tarragon aioli tops the hanger steak with eggs at the Gretna breakfast restaurant Toast. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

The hanger steak with eggs is a standard across the Toast menus that always makes me feel like I’m having brunch at a more upscale restaurant. It’s a nice piece of meat cooked medium-rare as ordered, drizzled with a bright tarragon aioli. The ridge of breakfast potatoes make this a mountain of a meal.

Pancake batter takes a ball shape for the aebelskivers served at Toast in New Orleans.

Advocate staff photo by Ian McNulty

Aebelskivers, a Nordic-style, orb-shaped pancake, is a Toast signature. Think of them as pancake balls. The fun shape is as irresistible to kids as the slide and swings waiting just past the outdoor tables.

Toast takes many forms at the breakfast restaurant called Toast, including French toast of course. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Toast is the creation of Cara and Evan Benson. They started out with Tartine, a French-style bakery and café they opened in 2010 near Tulane’s University Square complex. The first serving of Toast arrived in 2014 nearby on Laurel Street (this has since closed and is now a different brunch spot called Scrambled). The Gentilly and French Quarter editions followed.

A slice of king cake from Tartine reveals thick seams of cream cheese loaded with cinnamon and brown sugar within. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Tartine is the source of the Benson’s king cake, which is a thing of beauty, not to mention remarkable heft, wrought in the traditional style. This new Toast will be a distribution point for that king cake when Carnival season comes around again in eight short months (yes, some of us are counting).

A liquor license is still in the works for Toast in Gretna, which will bring morning cocktails to the main bar and second patio bar.

Toast Gretna

1711 Hancock St., Gretna, (504) 267-3260

And

Toast Fair Grounds

1845 Gentilly Blvd., (504) 351-3664

Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Sat. & Sun. 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Toast French Quarter

1035 Decatur St., (504) 300-5518

Daily 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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